Antique Diamond Brooch, Kerosang Pins, Geometric

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Antique Diamond Brooch
Antique Diamond Brooch
Kerosang Pins
Geometric
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Description

A delicate set of kerosang rantey pins set with intan diamonds in 20k-22k gold. Kerosang are brooches that come in a set of three pins, used to fasten the button-free kebaya (lightly woven blouse usually with embroidery). This kerosang set is of a coveted size, each pin measuring 4cm long and 1cm wide, one of the smaller sets around.

On each pin, 17 intan diamonds are hand set into tiny prongs that appear as flat dots, so fine are these claws that hold each uneven intan diamond. The usual ornate motifs escape this set, with an almost geometrical ‘feather’ in the focal piece against each ‘branch’, with neat, sparkly openwork that lets plenty of light in through the back of the diamonds.

Kerosangs were inspired by the presence and memory of grand, ‘rowdy’ family trees. Each big family branched into many smaller families and the presence of many similar (or variegated motifs) pins bears intimacy to the relationships and hence, ‘links’, to the close ties that go beyond the immediate basic family unit. The original idea is to pass down one pin to each child, so the children would hold pieces of their history as a unit.

It is interesting to note the class of a family in this regard. A rich matriarch would certainly have several sets to pass down to her children, each one probably receiving more than one set. Sets as such retain their wholeness and move down the family tree as complete sets. Sometimes, many sets of very similarly designed trios exist in that generation, with each generation reflecting the fashions of its time. Incidentally, it is believed today that a lady who could afford to have a set custom made for her implied a relative well off family or proper class. It is not every Peranakan Nonya who would have a set of kerosang cast in gold – they would be gild and for that matter, the one and only set (if, at all) presented during marriage.

This explains why we find ‘loose’ pieces today, or sets with wholly different motifs (this could not be incidental but rather, a conscious and perhaps whimsical effort). As you can imagine, intricate relationships spell intricate jewellery art, and expectedly, each affluent family will commission and envision increasingly intricate motifs. If one examines a sample of these pins and notice the shapes and space they form, their common or uncommon motifs, you would realise such exuberance is consistently applied in harmony of Peranakan jewellery art. In fact, we’ve seen photographs of such pins – sometimes one, or two close together – used gracefully on the hair or to style a rather East-West look.

It’s as if being Peranakans, they somehow seem to know that history is being made.

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