Antique Peranakan Jewellery, Snowflake Kerosang

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Antique Peranakan Jewellery
Antique Peranakan Jewellery
Snowflake Kerosang
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Description

A set of kerosang rantey pins set with intan diamonds in 20k gold. Kerosang are brooches that come in a set of three pins, used to fasten the button-free kebaya (lightly woven blouse usually with embroidery). This kerosang set is considered small, each pin measuring 1.3cm tall and 3.5cm wide.

Each pin has intan diamonds sparsely applied. Old Kerosang pins tend to be of two types, showcasing either diamonds or filigree (goldwork). The focal point of this set is its simple filigree, a leaf scroll motif around a snowflake or floral center. The clean lines in this set uphold the sparsely applied intan diamonds perfectly.

When pinned onto a garment, the pins are only slightly larger than a big button, or less than half the length of a finger. The pared down design of this set will work well with a modern wardrobe.

Compared to other kerosang sets, this is a very ‘quiet’ Peranakan piece. Yet such pieces, complete with their original ornate chains, and as well preserved, are increasingly uncommon.

This set would date to at least 70 years.

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Kerosangs were inspired by the presence and memory of grand, ‘rowdy’ family trees. Each big family branched into many smaller families and the presence of many similar (or variegated motifs) pins bears intimacy to the relationships and hence, ‘links’, to the close ties that go beyond the immediate basic family unit. The original idea is to pass down one pin to each child, so the children would hold pieces of their history as a unit.

It is interesting to note the class of a family in this regard. A rich matriarch would certainly have several sets to pass down to her children, each one probably receiving more than one set. Sets as such retain their wholeness and move down the family tree as complete sets. Sometimes, many sets of very similarly designed trios exist in that generation, with each generation reflecting the fashions of its time. Incidentally, it is believed today that a lady who could afford to have a set custom made for her implied a relative well off family or proper class. It is not every Peranakan Nonya who would have a set of kerosang cast in gold – they would be gild and for that matter, the one and only set (if, at all) presented during marriage.

This explains why we find ‘loose’ or mismatched pins today. As you can imagine, intricate relationships spell intricate jewellery art, and expectedly, each affluent family will commission and envision increasingly intricate motifs. If one examines a sample of these pins and notice the shapes and space they form, their repeated or uncommon motifs, you would realise exuberance stems from the fact that whim, like tradition, were studiously observed.

It’s as if being Peranakans, they somehow seem to know that history is being made.

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