Antique Diamond Lavalier Necklace, Peranakan Filigree Jewellery

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Antique Diamond Lavalier Necklace
Antique Diamond Lavalier Necklace
Peranakan Filigree Jewellery
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Description

Hand fabricated Peranakan 20-22k antique lavalier necklace set with intan diamonds.

This is the third Peranakan lavalier necklace we’ve curated, and it is also the widest set.

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The English-influenced, Art Nouveau insect and leaf motifs are typical of Peranakan jewellery, but what’s distinct in this piece is how the insects and birds are absent. In today’s marketplace, it appears that necklaces featuring only flower or garland motifs have become more uncommon. The garden motifs include clovers amidst flowers and leaf sprays.

Consequently, this lavalier necklace is rather grand in Peranakan speak. Like many Peranakan filigree necklaces, this piece similarly adapts three necklace styles – the bib, choker and lavalier – into one design.

You can trace this back to Victorian lavalier necklaces. While we see much of Chinese export jewellery from the Victorian period right to the two wars, we are always intrigued by the Straits Chinese insistence on perfecting traditional and Western motifs into what is essentially Peranakan.

The ‘bib’ (filigree part) spans 9cm across and is 7.5cm tall, while the entire lavalier is designed with four articulating links that interlink five folding parts. Most Peranakan necklaces and many smaller (or lightweight) pieces have three folding parts (two articulating links).

Its ‘choker’ style also veers from traditional chokers which are worn close to the nape – Peranakan necklaces are worn at the clavicle. The necklace sits just below the collarbone, a flat area to showcase the filigree bib.

This piece is earlier than mid-century, with good quality intan diamonds and in its original colour.

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In a cultural sense, we do not see this quality replicated in jewellery from anywhere, no matter how fine or expensive. Unlike Cartier or Bulgari or Tiffany, the style of Peranakan jewellery is not determined by any particular designer. They were the whims of whoever who commissioned them and thus made for them by the original craftsman. In this sense, desired style elements (butterfly, bird, insect, garland, etc) were perfected for the owner, piece after piece, each frivolous (and distinct) in the eyes of its owner.

As time passes, each ‘distinct’ design is admired by so and so other member and its joy intimated, causing this one piece to be further fabricated (and adapted) by another craftsman. Such jewellery pieces are essentially products of organic, cross cultural efforts. This explains why Peranakan jewellery remains a distinct arm of jewellery art, forming an almost solo study to the jewellery of this region.

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