Mid century cluster diamond ring set with diamonds weighing 1.5ctw in 20k.
This is a Straits Chinese ring, handcrafted in an ‘aeroplane’ design so called for its geometry.
Such a setting has of course adopted the Victorian navette ring, adapting its Western contemporary into an ethnic form.
There are many permutations of the navette design in Straits Chinese rings, but it is not often we get one with uniformly fiery diamonds.
The ring is 2.6cm tall, an enjoyable navette length to wear comfortably all day.
Diamonds range from 5pt to 8pt.
A little history on these types of ‘Oriental’ navette rings, colloquially named ‘kana’ rings, after the shape of olives.
There are three types of navette rings seen in this region, featuring full cut diamonds, hand cut diamonds, and paste stones.
The expansive form of these tall rings was to showcase the splendour of stones, hence the affluence of the wearer and her family.
Less socially-conscious women owned more organic and hence affordable hand cut or rose cut diamonds (as opposed to full cut diamonds in this ring).
And still even more affordable ‘kana’ rings were set with glass stones, especially bright blue synthetic ‘sapphires’ and pink ‘rubies’.
The glass stones are similar to paste jewelry in Victorian times, while the hand cut diamond group could be compared to early Victorian rose cut jewelry.
Very much unknown, the history of navette rings in this region is a peculiar thing. It is as if its history parallels the class and culture of its people.
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